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On|Off Presents returned to London Fashion Week once again with a presentation from three homegrown fashion labels.

CAPLANENTWISTLE  were up first with their SS18 Resort Collection ‘The Stranger’. A wonderful, nostalgic presentation of hand-painted denim and reworked plaid with references to Cher’s unforgettable number in the 90’s movie Clueless. This label is so wearable that I’d have worn the jacket out of the BFC show space then and there.

The duo behind this notable collection are Central St Martins class of 1999 graduates Emma Caplan and Adam Entwistle.

Remember the David Bowie, Blondie and AC/DC band tee on NET-A-PORTER everyone tried to get their hands on many years ago? These guys were behind that brand with cult label Buddhist Punk and now we’re loving band tee’s all over again getting our Buddhist Punk fix from retailers like ASOS. Their influence on today’s industry is still very much rock n roll, concluding their SS18 Ready to Wear show with a slogan tee that read ‘we are all colour here’.

Luke Anthony Rooney’s collection was not short of colour either but had a lighter narrative. The London based womenswear designer brought his love for experimenting with complex panelling back on the runway. Models walked on with silk shift dresses, defaced tailoring and frivolous swatches of colour on their faces. The tailored culottes with a stream of unexpected colour were a notable favourite of mine during this show.

Last but not least was Jack Irving’s larger than life SS18 display. Costume designer Jack Irving has had his pieces worn by Lady Gaga many times and draws inspiration from circus, theatre and the well acclaimed illuminations from his hometown Blackpool. Consequently, his SS18 collection serves as an example of this with a spectacle of theatrical blow-up attire. The inflatable pieces cage the human form in metallic and amplify his virtuosity, serving its ingenious purpose.

For more information about these designers head to:

www.JackIrving.co.uk

www.CAPLANENTWISTLE.com

www.LukeAnthonyRooney.com

And for more Fashion Week head over to my write up of Edeline Lee.

Edeline Lee London Fashion Week


Edeline Lee SS18 is inspired by the late American artist Georgia O’Keeffe. 

Following in her footsteps, Edeline travelled to New Mexico this season and became inspired by the concept of feminine courage. A trait that had a strong presence in both O’Keeffe’s artwork and personal life. 

The collection I saw earlier today, presented a series of abstracted, three dimensional shapes stacking onto dresses, sweatshirts and t-shirts – a theme which resonates with the O’keeffe iconography of flowers.

The most prominent feature in Edeline’s work this season are the knots and ties. The knots and ties sit deliberately on the hips, shoulder and waist to playfully exaggerate the female form.

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How much fun does Billie Jacobina’s AW17 collection look?

Billie Jacobina won the Ones to Watch award in September and rightly so. Her fashion week presentation displayed a spectacular and eye-catching sight of her remarkable imagination. Billie’s collection had so many different elements in terms of texture and I would love to see someone like Susie Bubble rock that translucent jacket.

For more information and to browse Billie Jacobina’s current collection visit BillieJacobina.com

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Expect captivating pieces from N&S GAIA next Autumn Winter as models lined up a succession of naturally dyed silks and detailed hand-woven embroidery. Inspired by mother nature and greek goddesses their LFW AW17 show presented free-flowing layers of silk with earthy tones and vivid embellishments.

More over on Vogue.co.uk and Fashion Scout

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13 shows, 2 presentations, 3 dinners, 4 parties and a broken suitcase later and I am back having survived full on fashion week. London is my favourite city for fashion week, not only is it my hometown but it also houses plenty of applaudable homegrown talent.

On Day 2 I was lucky enough to hang backstage with the models and MUA’s of Paul Costelloe’s LFW show. I had planned to publish Day 1-4 with you consecutively but this is one post I couldn’t wait to share with you guys as it was quite possibly my favourite day during fashion week.

The fashion world is often misunderstood by those on the outside who only see the industry through back pages of OK magazine capturing socialites at parties, glossy editorial and Hollywood entertainment like ‘The Devil wears Prada’.

It’s an industry that paints a glamourous picture of those who are alien to most, a world of the elite and filthy rich, filled with superficials who are assumed to be out of touch with the real world having been dealt a good hand in life.

This post will hopefully give you an insight of a hard working industry that is full of real people who dedicate themselves to their profession and don’t take life too seriously. Captured in these images are models who held their composure for their co-workers in the midst of chaos and a relentless line-up of wardrobe changes, run-throughs and cosmetic touch-ups smiling, being playful and enjoying the day.

Paul Costelloe, the father of fashion portrayed a better example than most of how humble industry professionals can be even those as long serving and deeply talented as himself. During an important run through of formulated models marching the runway Paul danced, clapped and twirled a model by the hand celebrating the finish line of a long period of hard work and dedication. A strong compilation of creations that he and his team had spent months working tirelessly on.

As expected, his designs outpaced others within the tailoring division. A stunning vision of artistic creations that featured wide lapels and voluminous balloon sleeves counterbalancing cutting edge tailoring that clinched the waist.

After the run through the models were greeted by a team of make-up artists and hair stylists ready to touch up their looks before the show.

Head of makeup was Yin-Lee, a high spirited professional with an artistic flair and copious attention to detail. She lead a team of AOFM Pro MUA’s who administered the beauty aspect of Paul Costelloe’s catwalk. The artists used Rituals cosmetics to create a natural look with a flawless finish. The striking component was created using a crimson eye pencil over the eyelid which I am dying to try out myself.

To those aspiring to break into the industry I hope this post offers you some comfort and also the courage to openly network with those in the industry. Ask lots of questions and be pro-active, everyone from the makeup team to the Designer are a reminder to us all that only with strenuous dedication and q a good working attitude are we able to let our talents shine.

Makeup by: AOFM Pro

Hair by: Label M

Costume by: Paul Costelloe

SHOP RITUALS BELOW TO RECREATE AOFM’S LOOK FOR PAUL COSTELLOE